Schlagwort-Archive: Lombok

1996: Bali, Lombok and the Gili Islands

FOREWORD

The author, Gerd Michael Müller, born in Zürich in 1962, traveled as a photo-journalist to more than 50 nations and lived in seven countries, including in the underground in South Africa during apartheid. In the 80 years he was a political activist at the youth riots in Zürich. Then he was involved in pioneering Wildlife & eco projects in Southern Africa and humanitarian projects elsewhere in the world. As early as 1993, Müller reported on the global climate change and in 1999 he founded the «Tourism & Environment Forum Switzerland». Through his humanitarian missions he got to know Nelson Mandela, the Dalai Lama and other figures of light. His book is an exciting mixture of political thriller, crazy social stories and travel reports – the highlights of his adventurous, wild nomadic life for reportage photography .

On Lombok, a neighboring island of Bali, relics of the Balinese ruling empire – the Hindu temples of Pura Meru, Batu Bolong and the royal court complex of Mayura – as well as the sites, cultural assets and customs of the indigenous Sasak people are visible. The Sasak follow the Wetu Tela teachings of the Prophet and were not officially tolerated by the Suharto government in Jakarta for fear of separatist movements. Nevertheless, on the day I arrived in Lombok, the villagers of Rambitan flocked together and a long pilgrimage procession set in motion of the tomb of Saint Syaid Abdul Amman. Once there, the Sasak lay down their offerings and pray for good luck, health and a good harvest. The Ziarah procession takes place only once a year after the birthday celebration of Muhammad. But many Sasak also come here in groups during the year to the final resting place of Hadas Husen, as they call their enlightened one, when they seek advice and inspiration.

Another impressive spectacle of animanistic customs is reserved for the mountaineers who dare to climb the 3726 meter high Mount Rinjani on a full moon night. In the full moonlight, the faithful climb to the summit to be as close as possible to the Almighty. The ascent is a tough one. Weather conditions are often harsh. When it rains, the scree becomes very slippery. Before they descend again after long trance states, they take a purifying and healing sulfur bath in the crater lake. From the crater rim there is a breathtaking view over Lombok and up to the mother mountain of the Balinese, the Gunung Agung.

Characteristic of the province of Nusa Tenggara Barat, which includes the neighboring islands of Subawa, is an exceptionally varied surface shape of the hilly landscape and the contrasting climate within a radius of a few kilometers. Despite significant topographic and climatic contrasts, the island, which is a good 80 kilometers long and not very wide, can be divided into four distinct cultural landscapes. The fringe between the northern coast and the mountain range around Mount Rinjani resembles a dry savannah. The wasteland is accordingly sparsely populated. On the other hand, abundant vegetation can be found in the higher altitudes of the central mountain region. It is covered with species-rich monsoon forest. One of the most cultivated areas is the plain around the urban agglomeration. In this agriculturally productive zone, rice, soy, chili and magnificent lotus flowers are cultivated.

In the urban centers of Mataram, the city of the big eyes, Amparam and Chakranegala, the bulk of the population at that time is concentrated at 2.5 million, densely packed (a good 1000 inhabitants per square kilometer). There they squeeze through the dusty lanes in the dokars, the horse-drawn carriages crammed with people and animals. The population is young, with 40 percent under the age of 15. The rapid economic development is coupled with political repression, and even tourist prosperity was often associated with forced expropriations.

The Suharto regime repeatedly made inglorious repressive headlines because the military expelled entire village communities, as in Borobudur on Java and on the island of Gili Trawagan. The dispossessed were hardly paid any compensation, but the Suharto regime profited handsomely from taxes on the hotel complexes that were built there. Political resistance and democratic rules were systematically repressed, freedom of the press was heavily censored and critics of the regime were harshly attacked. The three mini-coral islands Gilli Air, Meno and Trawangan, a snorkeler’s and diver’s paradise, were among the three tourist crystallization points at that time. In the west of the island the Senggi Beach and a bay reserved for surfers near the fishing village of Senggi Beach in the south of the island.

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1996: Bali, Lombok und die Gili-Inseln

Auszug aus dem Buch von Gerd M. Müller

AUSZUG AUS DEM BUCH «DAS PENDEL SCHLÄGT ZURÜCK POLITISCHE & ÖKOLOGISCHE METAMORPHOSEN DES ZÜRCHER FOTO-JOURNALISTEN GERD MICHAEL MÜLLER

Auf Lombok, einer Nachbarinsel von Bali sind sowohl die Relikte des balinesischen Herrscherreiches, – die hinduistischen Tempel Pura Meru, Batu Bolong und die königliche Hofanlage Mayura –  als auch die Stätten, Kulturgüter und Bräuche der Sasak-Ureinwohner sichtbar. Die Sasak orientieren sich an der Wetu-Tela-Lehre des Propheten und waren aus Furcht vor separatistiscshen Bewegungen von der Suharto-Regierung in Jakarta offiziell nicht geduldet. Dennoch strömten an diesem Tag, an dem ich auf Lombok ankam, die DorfbewohnerInnen von Rambitan zusammen und ein langer Pilgerzug setzte sich in Bewegung an das Grab des Heiligen Syaid Abdul Amman. Dort angekommen, legen die Sasak ihre Opfergaben nieder und beten für Glück, Gesundheit und eine gute Ernte. Die Ziarah-Prozession findet nur einmal jährlich statt nach der Geburtstagsfeier des Propheten Mohammed. Doch viele Sasak kommen auch unter dem Jahr in einzelnen Gruppen hierher zur letzten Ruhestätte von Hadas Husen, wie sie ihren Erleuchteten nennen, wenn sie um Rat und Eingebung suchen.

Ein weiteres imposantes Schauspiel und Brauchtum bleibt den Bergsteigern vorbehalten, die sich in einer Vollmondnacht auf den 3726 Meter hohen Mount Rinjani wagen. Im Vollmondschein erklimmen die Gläubigen den Gipfel, um dem Allmächtigen so nah wie möglich zu sein, denn der Aufstieg hat es in sich. Oft herrschen harsche Wetterverhältnisse und bei Regen wird das Geröll sehr glitschig. Bevor sie nach langen Trance-Zuständen wieder hinabsteigen, nehmen sie ein reinigendes und heilendes Schwefelbad im Kratersee. Vom Kraterrand aus biete sich ein atemberaubender Ausblick über Lombok und bis hin zum Mutterberg der BalinesInnen, dem Gunung Agung.

Charakterischtisch für die Provinz Nusa Tenggara Barat, zu der auch die Nachbarinseln Subawa gehört, ist eine aussergewöhnlich stark variierende Oberflächengestalt der hügeligen Landschaft und das kontrastreiche Klima im Umkreis weniger Kilometer. Trotz signifikanter topografischer und klimatischer Gegensätze lässt sich die Insel, die gut 80 Kilometer lang und nicht sehr breit ist, in vier unterschiedliche Kulturlandschaften unterteilen. Der Saum zwischen der nördlichen Küste und der Bergkette rund um den Mount Rinjani geicht einer Trockensavanne. Die Einöde ist entsprechend dünn besidelt. Überreiche Vegetation offenbart sich hingegen in den dahinter liegenden Höhenlagen der zentralen Bergregion. Sie ist mit artemreichen Monsunwald überzogen. Zu denkultiviertesten Gebieten zählt die Ebene rund um die städtische Agglomeration. In dieser landwirtschaftlich ertragreichen Zone werden Reis, Soja, Chilli und prächtige Lotusblüten angebaut.

In den Ballungszentren von Mataram, der Stadt der grossen Augen, Amparam und Chakranegala konzentriert sich das Gros der Bevölkerung damals 2, 5 Millionen, dicht gedrängt (gut 1000 Einwohner pro Quadratkilometer). In den Dokars zwängen sich die Menschen, Tiere und vollgestopfte Pferdekutschen durch die staubigen Gassen. Die Bevölkerung ist jung, 40 Prozent sind unter 15 Jahren. Die rasante wirtschaftliche Entwicklung ist gekoppelt mit politischer Repression und auch die touristische Prosperität, oft mit Zwangsenteignungen verbunden.

Das Suharto – Regime sorgte immer wieder für unrühmliche Schlagzeilen, weil das Militär repressiv ganze Dorfgemeinschaften wie in Borobudur auf Java und auf der Insel Gili Trawagan vertrieb. Den Enteigneten wurden kaum Entschädigungen bezahlt, dafür sahnte das Suharto-Regime kräftig mit Steuern der Hotelkomplexe, die dort entstanden, ab. Politischer Widerstand und demokratische Spielregeln wurden systematisch repressiv unterdrückt, die Pressefreiheit stark zensuriert und Regimekritiker hart angefasst. Zu den drei touristischen Kristallisationspunkten zählten damals die drei Mini-Koralleninseln, Schnorchler und Taucherparadiese Gilli Air, Gili Meno und Gili Trawangan. Im Westen der Insel liegt die Senggi-Beach, eine den Surfern vorbehaltene Bucht.

Philippines 95: Incredible Spirit Healer Skills

Swiss Photojournalist Gerd Müller talking to the local chief of the tribal people in the Philippines
Swiss Photojournalist Gerd Müller talking to the local chief of the tribal people in the Philippines

FOREWORD

The author, Gerd Michael Müller, born in Zürich in 1962, traveled as a photo-journalist to more than 50 nations and lived in seven countries, including in the underground in South Africa during apartheid. In the 80 years he was a political activist at the youth riots in Zürich. Then he was involved in pioneering Wildlife & eco projects in Southern Africa and humanitarian projects elsewhere in the world. As early as 1993, Müller reported on the global climate change and in 1999 he founded the «Tourism & Environment Forum Switzerland». Through his humanitarian missions he got to know Nelson Mandela, the Dalai Lama and other figures of light. His book is an exciting mixture of political thriller, crazy social stories and travel reports – the highlights of his adventurous, wild nomadic life for reportage photography .

(please note that translation corrections are still in progress and images will follow soon)

On a second trip to the Philippines, I first took a boat trip to explore Palawan Island, Busuanga Island and the Coron Islands, and then went to see Filipino spiritual healers in Luzon. Half a year before, a 25 year old healer came to Switzerland and Germany, who obviously already had cult status. In any case, three dozen people were waiting in Zurich for a short session with the healer. One after the other, the people gathered in a darkened room and briefly told the spiritual healer, who was in a trance, their request, whereupon he examined and palpated them and did strange things before my eyes, such as opening the body with the fingertip in certain places, whereupon the flesh wound opened up and he dipped his fingers into it.

The Filipino spiritual healers are said to have the ability to dematerialize their fingers when they are immersed and thus merge with the body tissue. Whether one may believe in this and their ability to remove cancerous tumors is one thing, what I have seen is another. But his fingers, pushed deep into the flesh, immediately became invisible under the surface of the skin and fused with the tissue. There were no more fingertips or tips to be seen, only the base of the finger above the skin surface remained visible. I was able to look at it up close from above and from the side, as incredible as it was. When he pulled the fingers out, it immediately closed the gaping wound and what was left was a slightly reddened area on the surface of the skin. „Absolute madness!“ I have never seen anything like this before and only twice with two spiritual healers, the one in Switzerland and just this one here in Luzon. Since then I perceive the world with different eyes and sensors.

This spiritual craft fascinated me so much that I went to a session in Zurich before without hesitation. My concern was a severe chronic cough due to excessive smoking. So first he penetrated my larynx with his hand, then as he entered my chest I felt a slight spreading pressure on my ribs, but not painful and finally I felt his hands enter my abdominal cavity as well. Fully conscious, I watched as his fingers disappeared into the gaping wound. Just unbelievable the abilities of this young spiritual mind healer, who gets his magic directly donated by the „Virgin Mary“, as he said. But the craziest thing is that the cough instantly disappeared into thin air, the lung function was considerably better and this condition certainly lasted three, four months! Also in the case of my daughter’s mother, who had a cancer smear with a PAP3 finding during pregnancy and therefore went to see the healer, she regenerated herself and the cancer cells after that session. No one would believe the story if I had not taken some proof photos of these surgical cuts and manual, spiritual interventions. This was so fascinating that I wanted to find out more about the healing methods of the Filipino spiritual healers on the island of Luzon and went there. After asking around for a while, I found another spiritual healer there who also treated Western tourists. Similar to Ayurveda in India, word had spread in European circles among cancer patients that there was perhaps hope of being cured in this way when Western medicine came to a halt.

At the healer’s in Luzon, I participated in an electric cable session where the participants shook hands in a circle and then were energized to a low volt connection. The local spiritual healer also opened the bodies with his hands and muddled around in them. Sometimes he pulled out small pieces of tissue and threw them into a plastic bucket next to the examination bed. „These were metastases,“ he explained, and I would have loved to take tissue samples and have them examined. With this spirit healer I was not quite so convinced whether it was not a „Hokuspokus“, because there were also fellow travelers among them, who tried to earn money with the reputation of the spirit healers with western tourists. The young Filipino who was in Switzerland, however, enjoys my highest respect and my unrestricted trust. Finally, the effect of the extraordinary treatment could be verified in some people. The session in Luzon did not seem to have any effect on me, but it did not do any harm either.

At the end of this trip to the Philippines I experienced an unpleasant surprise. I was arrested at the airport when leaving the country. Allegedly because I have the name of a person who was written out in the Philippines and was wanted. In fact, when I first entered the country, the border officials questioned me at length about my name and origin and wanted to know if I had ever been to the Philippines? When I answered in the negative they let me enter. But now the old problem seemed to be back on the radar of the migration authorities and prevented my exit. So I had to go to the Minister of Tourism, on whose invitation I was in the Philippines, to be released and allowed to leave after two days of detention plagued by fever and chills. Had it not been for him, I would have had to travel to Manila and present myself at the Ministry of Justice.

Fortunately, I was spared this and in order that other tourists in Switzerland would also be spared something like this if this happened to other travelers, I published the telephone number of the Minister of Justice in the newspaper with the reference that in such a case one should contact the head of the justice authority directly. This reference in the Swiss media was not appreciated by the Philippine Embassy. Even more: A few years later, when I was invited to the Philippines by the press, I was suddenly disinvited again and my efforts at the Philippine Embassy in Bern were also unsuccessful, although I sent them all passport excerpts with my travels abroad. When the Philippine military attaché contacted me with a negative reply and stamped me persona non grata, I knew that the US authorities were certainly behind the maneuver. They certainly had detailed knowledge of my numerous trips to Cuba and the Eastern Bloc. With it I had definitely arrived as a socialist friend on the „NSA“ and „CIA radar“.

Allmytraveltips Asien-Reportagen

Allmytraveltips Asien-Reportagen auf einen Blick. Wir wünschen Ihnen spannende Reisen zu neuen Ufern und Horizonten und freuen uns auf Ihr Feedback.

INDIEN

Indien/Gujarat: Frauen, bunte Kostüme, Stoffe, Mode, Tradition, Textilien | Women wearing colourfull dresses, costumes, Gujarat,

Indien/Gujarat: Frauen, bunte Kostüme, Stoffe, Mode, Tradition, Textilien. Bild: GMC

Online

Ayurveda-SpezialIndien: Gujarat: Ghandi-Land drängt auf touristische LandkarteIndien: Die Seele während der Flussfahrt in Kerala baumeln lassenAyurveda und spirituelle Rituale in «Gottes eigenem Land» erleben

Print Reports

GMC’s Ayurveda Reports | Wellness in der Ayurveda Heimat  (WL) | Indien: Hyppokrates war auch ein Ayurveda-Apostel (WL) | Ayurveda: Im Reich der Liebenden Hände (WoW) | Am Puls einer faszinierenden Medizin  (WoW)| Wellness in der Ayurveda Heimat Indiens (WL) | Sri Lanka’s schönste Ayurveda-Resorts (WoW) | Wellness in der Ayurveda-Heimat (WL) | Sri Lanka’s beste Ayurveda-Resorts  (WoW) | Ayurveda: Am Puls des Lebens (WL) | Ayurveda: Auf dem Weg zum Gleichgewicht (SO) | Hyppokrates war der erste westliche Ayurveda-Apostel (FT)

English Reports

India: Treated like a Mahardscha at Soma Kerala PalaceSomatheeram: Visiting India’s finest Ayurvedic resort in KeralaIndia: Gujarat wants to be a hot spot on the the tourist map


INDONESIEN/LOMBOK

Das Sasak-Reich tritt aus dem Schatten der Götterinsel hervor (Bund) | Trekking auf den Mount Rinjani auf Lombok (Tagi) | Lombok – die Alternative zu Balis Komerz (BaZ) | Das Sasak-Reich tritt aus dem Schatten der Götterinsel hervor (AZ) die links folgen in Kürze

 


LAOS

Laos Vietianne Pagoda 5264

Laos Vietianne Pagoda. Bild: GMC/ Photopress/Gerd Müller

Laos: Wiederentdecktes Indochina-Touristenparadies | Der Fluss, der zum Meer wird und Millionen von Menschen ernährt


PHILIPPINES

Inselparadies für Abenteurer (SO)Paradiese kurz vor dem Auftakt zum Massentourismus (AT/BT) | Inselparadies für Abenteurer (SO) | Paradiese kurz vor dem Massentourismus (Der Bund)  | Inselparadies für Abenteurer (NLZ) | Inselwelt vom Feinsten (SO)  die links folgen in Kürze


SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka: Ayurveda-Behandlung im Paragon auf Sri LAnka mit Reisstempel-Massage. Ayurvedic massage with rice-balls stamped on the body

Sri Lanka: Ayurveda-Behandlung im Paragon auf Sri LAnka mit Reisstempel-Massage. GMC

Die Ayurveda-Insel (R&S) | Die Perle des Orients nach dem Bürgerkrieg (SO) | Hinter dem Checkpoint liegt das Paradies (Tagi) | die links folgen in Kürze


VIETNAM

Asiens Tigerstaat auf dem Sprung (R&S) | Die starken Frauen von Lang Bien (Modeblatt) | Vietnam entwickelt sich schneller als ein Polaroid (View) | Vietnam zwischen Coca Coola und Ho Chi Minh (NLZ) | Ein letzter Spaziergang vor dem Vergessen (BaZ) | Vom Fieber des song voi ergriffen (…) | Honda ist wichtiger als Ho Chi Minh (Der Bund) die links folgen in Kürze


Weitere Reisespecials entdecken

Headerbild Pilatus AIR_PC-12_09

 Pilatus AIR_PC-12_09. BIld: z.V.g. Pilatus Werke, Stans

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